Cool, clear morning. Four degrees today and nothin’ but blue sky. The hotel Suisse breakfast parlour is abuzz with guests this morning helping themselves to fresh orange juice, cold meats, cheeses, fresh breads, croissants and steaming hot coffee (always in a nice little silver pot). And as for Christmas day, Champaign. We talk to a lovely old gent who seems to come here every morning for breakfast (and some afternoons for tea). He tells us that Christmas day and today are holidays here and very quiet, that not much work happens and that, even tomorrow, only a little bit of work gets done – ‘un petit peu’ and he signals a very small amount with his fingers and laughs. He is patient with us and doesn’t mind speaking slowly, smiling a lot as he talks with his warm melodical Alsatian accent.
Meanwhile, a slightly younger, tall slim, bespectacled Australian man walks to the cake stand. Mariela, our host, asks which cake Messieur would like, and points to the end one when asked softly and quietly by the Australian, ‘which cakes are made at Hotel Suisse?’
Then, in a voice rising clearly above the gentle breakfast room murmur; ‘Ya shoulda told im ya made em all here, he wouldn’t’ve known the difference. Just pick one Garry. And give im three spoons!’
A stooping Garry shuffled feebly back to the wife and daughter, immovable masses, awaiting the approaching cakes. I’m sure they’re lovely people, and I wish I was made of sterner stuff, but it felt awful.
The holiday crowd was busier than heard tell and queues were already starting to form at the Cathedral. By the time we left, a steady throng was circling through. Magnificent building – had a massive mechanical clock at one end too with different time zones, seasons, moon phases etc.
I ventured up the tower, we’d done it before but I thought I’d give it another crack. Great views out over Strasbourg and the graffiti is amazing.
Brief coffee and a chance to warm up back at Hotel Suisse, nearby, then out for brisk wander. The Christmas gift huts are all shut up but the vin chaud and crepe and waffle stands are all enjoying steady patronage. They make a white mulled wine here with honey and lots of citrus – it’s very nice (especially at four degrees).
We wander through Petite Paris and along the river bank as the light fades and finally (after a brief stop at the Acadamie de la biere), to La Corde a Linge, a restaurant recommended by a Strasbourgian hairdresser Di knows. Looking out from the warmth of the restaurant, we see people hooded-up-hands-in-pockets and hunkered down against the cold as evening falls. The two smokers outside our window keep their gloved hands on their vin chaud when not taking a puff.
The traditional meal at “The clothesline”, is sensational but the standout is the salted butter, burnt caramel, cream caramel – so good.
Nice walk back enjoying the Strasbourg Christmas lights for the last time before heading back for bed.
Great pics and info. We are still enjoying your travels. Dot
Loving every minute – walking through with you ! Joy
You’ve set the scene and ambience so well! There is often someone to break the sophistication and deliciousness of the place….pity it was a loud Australian voice. We enjoyed some delicious delicacies and main course from our Greek neighbor along with a thermo pot of lemon grass tea to counteract the fatty bits. It’s the people who make travel special….I am sure you agree. Cheers and happy travels
Loved that, ‘to counter act the fatty bits’. It’s a good choice. we’re using wine. Not sure what it does for fat but I don’t care – oh, that’s what it does.