Two worlds

“So, let us be alert–alert in a twofold sense.

Since Auschwitz we know what man is capable of.

And since Hiroshima we know what is at stake.”

Victor E Frankl, Man’s Search for Meaning

Spoiler alert to our West End friends and neighbour’s the following may contain images of places you are about to see. We trust you’re having a great time too.

Early rise and pack and off to a sixty year old Lonely Planet recommended coffee place where the original owners served steaming hot coffee in exquisite China with tiny metal cream jugs….and eggs on toast. Delightful! The old couple came to the door and bowed us out. Their humility is very humbling.

Gorgeous morning, blue sky, a few degrees, and very few people about. Peace park is beautiful, still, and a little overwhelming. It’s hard not to be touched by the immense horror of 140,000 vaporized men, women and children. Daunting like Dachau, although that’s a poor historical analogy.

The gardens, the matter of fact descriptions of the cataclysmic atomic power, the personal stories,… certainly create a powerful felt sense that peace, rather than retribution has been the wiser & healthier path forward.

Morning tea at the cafe in the park, watching small dogs being promenaded in their little jumpers, then back to J Hopper for our bags and off to Miyajima on the ferry.

Our J Hopper back packers overnighter afforded us a little luxury at Iwosa Ryokan at Miyajima. The gardens around the Ryokan are stunning, Japanese artistry as one might expect but crafted out of the natural surroundings. Tame dear wander about babbling brooks and the garden vistas open up, as you stroll, to views out over the old village streets, massive shrines and pagodas and to the grand O-Torii Gate and the sea beyond.

The onsen (hot bath) here is beautiful, all timber and stone, and the traditional robes and sandals certainly make you feel the part.

We walked from the warmth of the day into cool of the evening down through the village and out along the beach to finally see the sun set over O-Torii Gate.

Dinner was exquisite. Our own traditional sliding timber doored room with two kimono’d ladies serving us delicate, beautifully arranged portions of… wonderful food (menu below). The oysters were sensational.

We came back from dinner and everything had been tidied and the futons set up ready for bed. A bit of mad on-line stuff (why does everyone have end of Feb deadlines?) and we crashed.