In the 11th century King Garcia III, whilst out hunting partridge near Najera, followed his falcon into a cave in the red cliffs along the river Najerilla. Inside he found a statue of the Blessed Virgin holding fresh lillies and a burning oil lamp, and wearing a crown of jewells. He took this as a blessing for the Reconquista (the Spanish kicking out the Moors), and built a church there for the statue (using money plundered from the Moors). Later, the place was ransacked and one of the jewels, the Black Prince Ruby, ended up in the English coronation crown. This just goes to show that ultimately God only loves rich white people.
A short leg today. Di’s knee faired very well indeed. After a coffee and tortilla at a Cafe around the corner from the Albergue, we headed off in the dark towards Nareja and Azofra. The dawn unveiled a cooling silver grey high clouded sky that sped us along nicely (keeping great care to look after said knee of course).
We’re in Rioja, wine country, have been since leaving the old border town Viana, and the green vine rows roll on relentlessly. The soil seems more hospitable here, rich red brown and slightly clayey. Some of the wheat and vines in Navarra were pushing up river rock and railway ballast (seemingly)!
As an aside, look out for us being interviewed on Navara TV (which i’m sure you watch regularly). We’d just arrived in Estella and a TV crew was interviewing travellers on how they were finding Navara (an entire region of Spain). In my ignorance, I thought Navara meant this town and answered something like, ‘love the shops and this bridge is nice….”. Mmm perhaps we won’t be on Navarra TV.
Najera, of King Garcia III fame was a highlight today. We grabbed a second coffee in the slightly grungier eastern side of town before descending to the river where the council are working hard to grass, tree and ‘path’ the river’s edge. When done it will match the West bank’s welcoming lush green. The building facades on the western side also seem better kempt and more wholesome somehow however, one needn’t penetrate the facades a great distance to find ruin and decay. There are plenty of bars and clubs but also shells of collapsed houses and rubble…right up to foot of the legendary red cliffs. The well preserved monastary and accompanying town square on our path, provide brief respite from the dilapidation as we leave Najera and climb out of the river valley.
The section from Najera to Azofra was like walking through the hunter valley on a wednesday. Vineyards, tractors, people digging irrigation trenches etc. Indeed, tractors and other assorted farm equipment pass frequently through the streets of Azofra as will look for our digs. There’s a tractor with plow parked at the bar, its driver seated at a table by the square with a beer, as we grab some lunch and wait for the albergue to open.
We’re staying in one of the municipal “first-in-first-serve’ albergues today. Since we arrived at 11am (i.e., first), we’re put up in room 0. It’s nice. A large court yard with some small trees, chairs and tables, forty beds, 2 per room, a nice change from dorms, a large kitchen-come-laundry and a dining room with plenty of large trestle tables. The dunnies flush with the sound of V2 rocket engine (it’sfor all the scroggin the pilgrims eat) and are siuated directly outside room zero – so that’ll be interesting! There’re no meals provided hear so its supermercado and cook your own or off to one of two or three small bar-restaurants 200 yards away. Easy either way.
It’s cool here now, 17 degrees and breezy. From the treed landing at the top of the church steps snow can be seen on the distant peaks. Jackets and jumpers are donned as people come out in the streets for their evening promenade and family meal.
Until tomorrow.