Di takes a mother’s day break and I take the hike to Mansilla de Les Mulas. It’s flat, raining and cold. Pilgrams’ ‘Holas’ seem to have lost their usual Perkiness this morning, heads down, wet, girding loins to push through.


The first 13km is roadside tramping. Most people are walking on the road as the track is awash.


Di and I both call home(s) separately and catch up on news. Harry and teams game trailer is sensational and Jordy’s off to Vanuatu for a gig – sweet.


At Reliegos, the first town, albergue ‘Teddy’ looks deserted and closed. Inside, out of the rain, it’s abuzz with pilgrims drying off quaffing coffees and consuming cardiac inducing quantities of hot crepes with cream (I had a tin of tuna so all good – cue violins). There are some nice terratecture examples to check out in this town.


Post Reliegos, the sunshine’s out, or at least it’s not raining and it’s a pleasant final five kilometers into Mansilla de Les Mulas. Di has arrived having caught a cab with German lady Uta, and is chilling in the cafe.

Charles, our Albergue host, welcomes each arrival and takes them off to clean the toilets (ha ha, he jokes). I have to duck back next door to the cafe to get some cash to pay the fourteen euros per person accommodation and Charles says, ‘ah, it is universal, the woman always have the money’.

It’s a lovely little albergue with two rooms each with four bunks. Breakfast is by donation from 6:30am.
We settle in, chill for awhile then head out for a walk. This medieval walled city (1200) is built on first century roman foundations and heritage listed. There’s lots of mud brick houses, timber beams, narrow paved streets and much of the medieval stone wall.


Restaurants don’t open till 7:30, so we find a Cafe to hang out in briefly, then walk more of the wall. Down a lane leading to the last remaining medieval stone arch to the town we find Hostal La Albergueria de Camino and inside, Jane, Kate, Paul and Paul from South Australia (we met them previously in Hornillos Del Camino (where Napoleans men stole the chickens). They’re well away and want to guess our (prior) professions and then have us guess theirs. It’s some harmless fun before an outstanding meal….with a bottle of red wine (leaks wrapped in bacon and pork and chicken with chips).


We rush back to the Albergue before they lock us out. Tomorrow Leon!




